Under Seat Tool Tray N.W.Geeson Of the two types of tool tray fitted to these cars for some reason it is very often the underseat variety that is missing from the vehicle. This is probably because they are the rarer type and no so easily replaceable. The images below may assist an owner to construct a new tool tray; the images should be self-explanatory. Construction of the tool tray is in fact very easy as no polished woodwork is involved but the front rail is covered with leather, which can be ink dyed to match the original car upholstery. The matching of this process can be judged from the images, and the leather treatment in this case was purchased from Woollies of Market Deeping, Lincolnshire, England. Although actual construction is simple, one or two points need keeping in mind and the operation needs completing in the order mentioned below. It is advisable to only tack the components together lightly so that they maybe taken apart initially until a trial fit of the complete tray can be made. The seat slides are off set to the front rail. Therefore to obtain a datum point the slides must be securely fitted to the seat base and the seat fitted to the car before construction begins. The first operation is to measure, cut and paint the plywood base ensuring it will slide freely in the seat slides. Once the plywood base has been slid into position in the seat rails the tool tray rubber insert can be placed on the base. At this point measurements can be taken around the rubber insert and compared with the tool tray sketch drawing shown here. If sizes agree, timber can be cut to the dimensions shown and the made up side rails fitted to the base with panel pins. If it is intended to make an alloy top to fit the tool tray as shown, it is important that the rear rail be left tall enough to accommodate a piano hinge across the rear. Only when the tool tray has been constructed should the front rail be made out of any suitable soft timber. When the tray has been positioned in the seat recess a suitable cardboard template can be made to shape the front rail. At this point it is necessary to obtain a lock and carefully check the lock position, as the tongue does not draw from the lock in exactly the centre position. In short the lock is slightly off set from the centre of the front rail and the rail is off set from the tray bottom. Now at this point it is wise to think twice and act once after examining the lock and front rail situation. It will be seen that there is a relationship between the front rail thickness, position of the plywood base and the lock, and each must be correct. Locks for the trays are fairly easily obtainable and a key can be ordered to fit the lock number, which is stamped on the lock. Alternatively a sensible owner-driver can alter the lock plungers to accept the normal dash key. The last phase is cutting and gluing suitable leather to the front rail and then entering the lock into position to complete the job.