Shutter Positions

All Bentley EPW cars went through a series of front shutter grille changes. Three major shutter arrangements were used, 10 shutters in each half to approx B 163 DZ, some 9 shutters in each half up to R type B 210 TN, and thereafter 9 shutters in each half with a centre bar. In between these major changes a few minor changes took place.

All these changes were not completed for the styling exercise but to improve cooling. Further to these changes a system of modifying the earlier and intermediate shutters took place to assist cooling. These changes need applying to all shutters whenever the shell unit has been removed from a car.

The modification on each shutter set comprises of drilling out one of the two rivets at each end of individual shutter rails. The vertical rail is then turned or pivoted on the existing rivet, towards the open position as far as is feasible to admit more cooling air commensurate with a good frontal appearance. Common sense should dictate which shutter rivet to drill out to obtain the desired pivoting action, and a rivet in the same alignment needs drilling out at the opposite end.

Once the new position of the shutter rails has been chosen the lower end of each shutter can be drilled through the old vacant rivet hole and the shell bottom bearer, and a new rivet inserted. In the earlier modifications the company suggested soldering the rail in the new position. This means applying some form of heat and it is also difficult to clean up the individual faces of the shutter and the shell bearers, and re-riveting appears to be a better choice to secure the rails.

Anyone attempting this modification will find that the centre bearer that clips into each shutter rail half way up the shell varies in design depending on which shutter set is fitted. This centre bearer design will in practice limit the increased angle through which the shutter can be pivoted, before the rail and bearer clip arrangement foul each other. It is possible on the two earlier shutter designs to grind out each see- saw clip to allow a greater rail pivot angle to be achieved. The ground out position causes no distress to the frontal appearance, as it cannot be seen, and because the rails are brass no corrosion takes place. The rails will stand some amount of tensioning towards the more open position and certainly admit more air.

Fig 4 shows the shell and shutter appearance on a late R type when the shutters have been opened out to maximum. Close up, the radiator matrix can just be seen from a direct head on view, but in 20 years even specialists have admitted they have never noticed the modification. An examination of other cars will usually show that the radiator matrix cannot be seen, and even the company admitted that on the earlier cars the centre 8 inch of the matrix is starved of cooling air.

Mounting Arch to Chassis Bolts, Bolts, Washers, Nuts and Split Pins

Few people pay attention to split pins and yet there is always a chorus of complaint when split pins have to be removed. It is suggested that the following system is used when the split pins are inserted in the mounting bolts. This will ensure the pins are tight and yet easy to fit and remove.

Choose a split pin that can be inserted into the bolt hole without having to apply any undo force. Cut the pin ends to length, and if a grind stone is available grind a radius on the cut ends generally towards a pointed shape. Open out each pin around 0.375 inch by spreading the legs and then close the legs again. This will create a ‘set’ in the legs of the pins that will keep them free from vibration fretting and leave them easier to withdraw.

Enter the arch bearer square headed bolts into position and set the pin hole in a compass position that will best aid both fitting and withdrawal of the split pins. Place a spot of grease on each split pin and in each pin hole, and fit the plain washers and castel nuts. Tighten the nuts and enter the spit pins, turn the nuts slightly to grip the pins, and finally spread the legs of the pin.

Front engine mounting renewal

The production parts that originally made up the front mounting are shown at Fig 5. Once the radiator assembly has been removed, the fan and belt, and preferably the dynamo can be removed to improve access. At that point the front of the engine will look similar to Fig 6. Note in this view the arch bearer to chassis bracket four retaining bolts have previously been fitted back to front; their nuts should face to the front of the car.

Prior to raising the engine to take weight off the mounting, ensure that both gearbox rear side buffer adjusters are slackened off fully so that in no way do they exert vertical forces as the engine is raised. Failure to do so is likely to result in cracking or breaking off of the threaded adjuster sections from the rubber buffer cup holders. These buffer adjusters are shown in a later section of this article covering the rear mounting arrangements.

Extract the four split pins from the front cross bearer arch to chassis attachment bolts, remove the castel nuts from the bolts, but leave the bolts in place. Take note that the bolts are a very close fit and packing pieces, Fig 5, are inserted between the arch bearer and chassis brackets.

Take the weight of the engine assembly off the mounting by jacking up on the alloy sump near the front end. Place adequate protection packing or support between the jack and sump, and also block or pack independent of the jack for safety. Only raise the assembly enough to remove and replace the rubber mountings.

Undo and remove the two nuts and spring washers holding the rubber mounting retaining plate, remove the front RF 727 rubber by prising it out of position. Gently tap out the four chassis mounting bolts (they have already had their nuts and washers removed). Make sure that the arch bearer is not under load so that the bolt threads are not damaged. Finally remove the arched engine mounting bearer and the rear RF 727 rubber. Collect the spacers positioned between the chassis brackets and arch bearer.

Clean the parts ready for assembly, make sure the split pin holes are clean in each bearer bolt and prepare the split pins as previously described. Apply a very thin layer of rubber grease, if available, to the protruding inside and outside section of the new RF 727 mountings.

Commence to place the new rear rubber mounting into the arch bearer aperture and at the same time position the bearer so it will both fit over the inner timing case carrier, and its outer legs will fit behind the chassis mounting brackets. Some force and positioning will be required and some repairers prefer to enter the rubber initially onto the carrier instead of inside the arch bearer. Once the arch bearer is approximately in position fit the front rubber mounting, the retaining plate and the spring washers and nuts. It may be found that it is necessary to fit the nuts initially without spring washers to gain thread access and pull up the mounting into position. However position the spacing packers between the arch mounting and chassis brackets, before tightening the two retaining plate nuts as follows.

Position the spacer plates, if necessary prise and flex the arch cross bearer against the new rubber mounts, so that one end of the spacer is in alignment with one hole. Use a taper punch if needed to line up the components. Once aligned enter one of the square headed bolts from the rear, (note these are NOT correct in Fig 7), through the arch, spacer and chassis bracket and fit the plain washer and castel nut. Push the other end of the spacer into alignment with the other hole and repeat the procedure. Treat the other side of the arch attachment in the same way. Tighten the two main rubber mounting retaining plate nuts making certain that the spring washers are fitted under these nuts. Finally tighten the arch bearer to chassis four castel nuts and spit pin as previously described.

Let the full engine weight onto the front mounting and then reset the gearbox rear rubber buffers. Refit the front end parts and refill the cooling system.

Rear Mounting Considerations

The introduction of the R type model, the higher compression engine, automatic transmission and the replacement of the riveted chassis frame with a welded frame caused a few problems to the later R type chassis webbed design tie rod attachment. In fact all chassis affected, and already in owner’s hands were intended to be retrofitted, and production types reverted to the earlier MKVI tie rod. A bulletin BB 180 was issued to cover cars already in owner’s hands.

Bulletin BB180

This bulletin has been reproduced in full in Fig 8 to Fig 12. Not only will it explain to some owners of early R types why their chassis tie rod arrangement may be different, but also how to modify it to current standards. In addition it explains how to remove, refit and adjust the tie rod correctly, which may save a little repetition here.